Venice is made of 117 small islands, connected by 177 waterways or canals, and spanned by 465 bridges. Founded in the 5th century as a refuge from barbarians, the city grew to become a major maritime power. In the middle ages, Venetians served as middlemen for East-West trade and created a great trading empire. By smuggling in the bones of St. Mark (San Marco) in 828 A.D., Venice gained religious importance as well. This car-free city is an architectural masterpiece - even the smallest buildings contain works by some of the world's greatest artists. The old city has been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
We arrived by air – the airport is on the mainland – and immediately boarded a water-taxi for the transfer to Venice. Boats (and feet) would be our only means of transportation for the next few days! Our hotel was not the fanciest one in town, but the location could not have been better. The Hotel Royal San Marco was just a few feet down a narrow alley from St. Mark’s Square, where we started our exploration of Venice’s neighborhoods.
In San Marco:
Piazza San Marco – St. Mark’s Square was the heart of Venice in its glory days as a seafaring republic. Possibly the world’s most famous square, Napoleon called it ‘the drawing room of Europe.’ The pedestrian-only square is surrounded by magnificent historic buildings that are testament to the power and wealth of the Venetian Empire. St. Mark’s Basilica dominates the square. Just outside the Basilica is the campanile (bell tower). Around the corner is the Doge’s Palace, with its Bridge of Sighs. The Piazza itself is lined with some of the world’s oldest and most overpriced cafés, including Florian’s (1720) and Quadri (1775).
Basilica di San Marco – The Basilica of St. Mark is known as the Church of Gold (Chiesa d’Oro). It is one of the world’s greatest and most richly embellished churches – its cavernous candlelit interior is gilded with mosaics added over some 7 centuries. The basilica is a conglomeration of architectural styles, but it looks like it might have been moved intact from Istanbul. It is capped by a dome and its façade features marble slabs and mosaics depicting scenes from the life of Christ and St. Mark. Spanning the façade is a loggia, topped by replicas of the four famous horses of St. Mark.
Inside, the atrium is covered with mosaics illustrating scenes from the Old Testament, and the floor is made of multi-colored mosaics.
The high altar contains the alleged sarcophagus of St. Mark, resting under a green marble blanket and held by four alabaster columns. Behind the altar is the rarest treasure of all – the Byzantine-style Pala d’Oro, a golden altar screen measuring 10 X 4 feet. It is set with 300 emeralds, 300 sapphires, 400 garnets, 100 amethysts, 1300 pearls, and assorted rubies and topazes.
Upstairs is the Marciano Museum, which is home to the original Triumphal Quadriga, four horses looted from Constantinople by Venetian crusaders when they sacked that city in 1204. This is the only quadriga – a quartet of horses yoked together – to have survived from the Classical era, believed to have been cast in the 4th century.
The Campanile is the bell tower of San Marco, the tallest bell tower in Venice. It was built in the 16th century, collapsed in 1902 and was rebuilt 10 years later. The campanile’s straight-lined simplicity is a marked contrast to the riot of decoration on the basilica.
The Clock Tower (Torre dell’Orologio) – Built in 1496, the clock tower marks the entrance to the ancient Mercerie, a retail shopping street that zigzags its way to the Rialto Bridge. The two Moors strike the bell atop this Renaissance clock tower every hour. The clock itself not only tells the time, but also matches the signs of the zodiac with the position of the sun. The building to the left of the tower is the Procuratie Vecchie – the Old Law Courts.
Palazzo Ducale – This Venetian Gothic palace was the home of the ruling doge (or duke) and the center of power in Venice. Italy’s grandest civic structure, built in 1309, the pinkish-red marble and white Istrian stone gleam in the sunlight. To the left of the entrance are four porphyry figures which the Venetians called ‘Moors.’
Bridge of Sighs (Ponte dei Sospiri) is the covered bridge linking the Doge’s Palace with the Palazzo delle Prigioni, or prison. Prisoners sentenced in the palace crossed here to prison. The ‘sighs’ in the bridge’s name stem from the sad laments of numerous victims forced across to face torture and possible death.
The Piazetta San Marco could be called ‘Europe’s antechamber.’ Hemmed in by the Doge’s Palace, Sansovino’s Library, and a side of St. Mark’s, this tiny square faces the Grand Canal. It contains two tall granite columns – one is surmounted by a winged lion representing St. Mark, and the other is topped by a statue of a man taming a dragon – supposedly the dethroned patron saint Theodore. During Venice’s heyday, dozens of people either lost their heads or were strung up here.
A few steps from the busy square is the Church of San Moise, founded in the 8-th century and rebuilt numerous times – the present façade dates from 1668. The courtyard of the church was the site of the first theatre in Venice.
Nearby is La Fenice, Venice’s opera house. It was built in 1792 and named “La Fenice” (The Phoenix) in an allusion the opera company’s survival through many hardships before moving here. Nearby is one of the wells that once provided drinking water to city residents.
There are many fine palaces in this area, but the Ca’a Contarini del Bovolo - a mixture of Renaissance and Gothic architecture, could not be confused with any other. In the late 15-th century, this home was enlarged by adding a series of loggias, linked together by a round tower with a spiral staircase. This tower caught the imagination of the locals, who nicknamed the palace “Il Bovolo” (The Snail).
In Castello:
San Zaccaaria – The Church of St. Zacharias supposedly contains the body of Zacharias, the father of St. John the Baptist. The original church here was built in the 9th century. The current structure was built between the years 1444 and 1515. Home to an amazing collection of artwork by some of Italy's best artists, the most famous painting inside the church is Bellini's Madonna Enthroned, painted in 1505.
Chiesa Santi Giovanni e Paolo (the Church of St. John and St. Paul) is the pantheon of Venice – it houses the tombs of many doges and patricians. It was built in Gothic style during the 13th and 14th centuries; it is one of Venice’s largest churches and contains works by many noted Venetian painters.
Arsenale – The Nuovo Arsenale was built in 1320 and was much more spacious than the original Byzantine-style structure. During its heyday, this was the largest shipyard in the world, with 16,000 employees. The most impressive architectural feature of the Arsenale is the Porta Magna or main gate, which was added to the facility in 1460.
Riva degli Schiavone – a lovely and lively promenade located between the Doge's Palace and the Arsenale. It was built in the 9th century, with market stalls added in the 15th century for selling meat and dried fish. Today the stalls are crowded with snacks, pastries, confections, and souvenirs. The walk passes beautiful old buildings and churches, as well as a statue of Vittorio Emmanuelle, the first president of unified Italy.
Here, too, are the best views of San Giorgio Maggiore, or the Church of St. George Major. The church, which sits on a little island of the same name, was designed by the Renaissance architect Palladio in the mid-1500s.
In Cannaregio:
The Jewish Ghetto is the area where Venice’s Jewish population once lived, segregated from their non-Jewish neighbors. Set aside as the Jewish quarter in 1516, the world’s original ghetto became extremely crowded and expanded in the only possible direction – upward. The pale-pink six-story ‘skyscrapers’ are reminders of the tremendous population density of this area. The iron bridge here was once a drawbridge, opened at night to prevent traffic in and out of the ghetto. Our word “ghetto” comes from geto, the former copper foundry located here.
In San Polo:
Across the Grand Canal, in the very center of Venice is the Rialto – one of Venice’s oldest settlements, named for the upper bank of the canal, where the land was higher than elsewhere – and less prone to flooding. Historically, this has been the heart of the business district and today it is still a hive of commercial activity.
The Rialto Bridge is the oldest of the four bridges that span the Grand Canal. It was designed by Antonio la Ponte, a local architect whose plan was selected over those submitted by Palladio and Michelangelo.
Today it is covered with shops, including one filled with items needed by gondoliers and another specializing in masks for celebrating Carnival.
At one end of the bridge is the city market, where the locals shop daily for the freshest fish, meat and vegetables. Even tourists find good things to eat here.
Walking from the bridge along the Grand Canal, narrow streets wind along between piazzas, each with its own church. Here are three in a row: Santa Maria del Gloriosa dei Frari, San Salvador, and San Silvestre.
In Dorsoduro:
Across the mouth of the Grand Canal is the island of Dorsoduro. Here there is a nice promenade along the waterfront with a spectacular view of St. Mark's Square.
Chiesa Santa Maria della Salute (the Church of St. Mary of Salvation) represents the pinnacle of the baroque movement in Venice. One of Venice’s most historic churches, La Salute was built in the 17th century as an offering to the Virgin for delivering the city from the Plague.
Here also is the Peggy Guggenheim Museum, known for its collection of modern art, and the Galleria dell Accademia, a repository of Venetian art over the ages.
Dorsoduro has a quieter feel about it, more like an island and distinctly less touristy than the busy area around St. Marks. It’s a good place to wander.
On the islands: Murano, Burano, and Torcello
The island of Murano is famous for glass-blowing since 13-th century, when factories were removed from the city as a fire hazard. We visited one of the factories to see how this art is practiced today.
The island is also known for the Church of Santa Maria e San Donato, with its twelfth century Byzantine mosaic pavement. The church contains relics of Saint Donatus of Arezzo as well as some large bones said to belong to a dragon slain by the saint.
Murano’s main street is a canal lined with Renaissance houses. Of course, there are plenty of sidewalk cafes for relaxing and people-watching.
The island of Burano is famous for lace-making, a craft that reached its pinnacle in the 18th century. Today it is a charming fishing village far removed in spirit from the grandeur of Venice. Houses are painted in varied colors – sienna, cobalt blue, barn red, butterscotch and grass green.
Here’s Julia – our guide during our stay in Venice. She’s a Brit who has been living here for 30+ years – she claimed that she posed for this statue located on the waterfront on Burano.
The island of Torcello was the birthplace of Venice, the first area of the lagoon settled in the 5th century. Today it is best known for the cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, Venice’s oldest building, founded in 639 AD.
MOSE (MOdulo Sperimentale Elettromeccanico, Experimental Electromechanical Module) is a massive construction project intended to protect the city of Venice and the Venetian Lagoon from flooding. When (if) completed, a system of gates will temporarily isolate the Venetian Lagoon from the Adriatic Sea during high tides. Flooding is historically a problem here, and most low-lying areas are equipped with portable walkways for use in high water. Many residents hope that MOSE will turn the tide as the city sinks and water levels rise with global warming. Others are more cynical, doubting both the science and commitment of government officials. Note that the name hold a dual meaning, alluding to the biblical character Moses ("Mosè" in Italian), who is remembered for the parting of the Red Sea.
Linkages: Canals, bridges and gondolas
Venice’s neighborhoods and islands are fascinating places to visit, but the city’s most distinctive features are its canals, bridges and gondolas. No place else in the world can compare!
The Grand Canal is the largest of the 177 waterways that intersect and connect Venice. It is almost two miles long and is easily the finest street in the world – outshining the Champs-Elysees in Paris or New York’s famous Broadway – if only by sheer uniqueness. Lined with Venetian Gothic palazzo, this great road of water is filled with vaporetti, motorboats, and gondola. The boat moorings look like peppermint sticks.
The Grand Canal is lined with magnificent buildings; the 15th century Ca’d’Oro (House of Gold) is one of the most beautiful. In all, there are over 200 palaces, the patrician residences of great old families whose names were written in the Golden Book of the Republic.
There are only four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. The precursor of the present Rialto Bridge was built in 1180; the final stone bridge in use today was finished in 1591. A single marble arch of 90 feet span, the Rialto remained the only Grand Canal overpass until 1854.
The Grand Canal and its bridges are indeed grand, but the charm of Venice is in its back roads – small canals, waterways, bridges and alleys that crisscross, intersect and somehow connect all the parts and pieces into one magical city. There are 465 bridges in Venice, essential structures in a world of islands and canals.
Getting around in Venice is mostly a matter of walking, with occasional breaks for a vaporetto or water bus for longer distances. What about the gondolas, inseparable from a mental picture of Venice. Most gondola passengers these days are tourists, but there also are police gondolas, trash-collecting gondolas, fire-service gondolas, even funeral gondolas.
We took an obligatory gondola ride – complete with serenade – it may be touristy, but it was an experience we’ll never forget.
We also visited Squero di San Trovaso, the oldest of the three remaining boatyards that build and repair Venetian gondolas. This tiny shop was established in the 17th century. Its wooden structures are Tyrolean in style since workers came originally from the Dolomites, an Italian section of the Alps.
The gondoliers wear distinctive sailors’ jumpers and straw hats; the job of gondolier is a coveted profession, passed down from father to son over the centuries. They are easy to spot around town, always ready to give your feet a rest.
There are about 350 gondolas today in Venice, and they are built according to an exact science that has been around for hundreds of years. New gondolas are fashioned from eight different kinds of wood - mahogany, cherry, fir, walnut, oak, elm, larch and lime - as tradition dictates. Since the 16th century, all gondolas must be painted black in accordance with a law that was imposed because the gaudiness of the decorations on the gondolas was getting out of hand. Today, only an iron symbol of the city is affixed to the bow and a small wood carving secures the oar, making the boats quite simple and plain. Gondolas contain no modern equipment to propel them through the water. A single gondolier stands in the back left-hand side of the boat and propels it with a single oar.
Venice is no doubt one the world’s most beautiful cities, but today it is in peril. Its population is shrinking: the current population of 58,000 is half the number that lived there 30 years ago. The city is sinking at the rate of about 2.5 inches per decade; at the same time, the damp climate, mold and pollution are causing further deterioration. Thankfully, it lasted long enough for us to visit.
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